The gate in Israel’s wall leading to Bethlehem on Christmas Eve 2006. As the world’s attention focused on Jesus’ birthplace for a few days, Israel made goodwill gestures by easing entry and offering children chocolate Santa Clauses. But Bethlehem is the “friendliest” of the checkpoints at any time of the year because so many tourists and pilgrims pass through it. That is also the reason for the welcoming sign to the right of the watchtower. (December 2006)